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Datum: 
15. September 2009

Gili Trawangan, ein kleines Korallenatoll im Norden von Lombok, Balis „kleiner Schwester“, wollten wir als nächstes bereisen. Nach einem Preisvergleich in den vielen kleinen Reiseagenturen entschieden wir uns für Wisata und zahlten 220.000 Rp p.P (ca. 15€) für eine ca. 10 stündige Fahrt. Es ging schon lustig los, denn ein Minibus brachte uns und fünf weitere Passagiere samt Gepäck morgens um 07.00 Uhr zum Fähranleger. Recht beengt und mit den Rucksäcken im Nacken waren wir mittendrin in der frühmorgendlichen balinesischen „Rush hour“ und das bedeutet hier tausende knatternde kreuz und quer fahrende Mopeds. Es grenzte an ein Wunder, dass sie sich nicht selbst über den Haufen fuhren. Alles und wirklich jeder hupte, egal ob man gerade überholen wollte, an der Ampel stand oder einfach nur so. Beim Fähranleger wollten uns alle möglichen Leute ein Rückfahrticket aufschwatzen, doch wir ließen uns nicht beirren. Uns war klar, dass wir bei Wisata schon zuviel bezahlt hatten und wollten alles in Ruhe auf Gili Trawangan erledigen.

 

 

 

Die 4 ½ stündige Fährfahrt verlief recht entspannt als die vielen Händler endlich von Bord verschwanden. Wirklich jeder wollte uns was verkaufen aber mit freundlicher Bestimmtheit lehnten wir jedes noch so gut gemeinte Angebot ab. Doch in Lombok nahm das Chaos seinen Lauf. Die Händler wollten uns Halsketten, Armreifen, Getränke, Reiscracker oder Obst verkaufen, doch wir wollten nur in Ruhe gelassen werden und endlich auf die Insel kommen. In einer weiteren beengten Minibusfahrt ging es auf Lombok zum nächsten Bootsanleger. Die Fahrt glich einem Extraabenteuer, denn mit einsetzendem Regen sah unser Fahrer kaum noch etwas durch die Windschutzscheibe und auf der Straße wurden weder rote Ampeln noch irgendwelche Spuren für voll genommen. Sowieso funktionierte nur das Wesentlichste in unserem Minibus. Er besaß weder eine Innenlüftung, was bei Regen und acht schwitzenden Touristen im Bus wirklich sinnvoll gewesen wäre, noch einen funktionierenden Tacho. Straßenanarchie oder wer hupt und ist am schnellsten unterwegs?

 

Während der Busfahrt säumten unzählige Moscheen unseren Weg und uns wurde schlagartig bewusst, dass hier der Islam die Hauptreligion ist. Gleichzeitig war Ramadhan und wir konnten uns kaum vorstellen, dass die Strenggläubigen bei der Hitze tagsüber weder essen noch trinken dürfen. Von unseren später auf Gili benachbarten deutschen Medizinstudentinnen, die ihre Famulatur in einem malayischen Krankenhaus auf Borneo absolvierten, erfuhren wir später, dass sogar einige Medikamente in dieser Zeit nicht genommen werden. Unvorstellbar für uns Ungläubige...

 

Beim nächsten Bootsanleger erwartete uns das gleiche Spielchen wie schon zuvor in Bali. Die „Banditen“ wollten uns glaubhaft machen, dass man auf Gili Trawangan keine Rückfahrttickets kaufen könne. Sie versicherten uns, dass sie uns nicht anlügen würden. Wir glaubten ihnen jedoch kein Wort und verließen uns auf unsere Intuition. Mittlerweile waren wir nach 9 Stunden auf Achse mit nicht mehr als einer handvoll Cracker im Bauch völlig kaputt, gereizt und enttäuscht von den Wartezeiten an den Boots- und Fähranlegern...

 

 

 

Gegen 17.30 Uhr erreichten wir dann endlich nach 11 Stunden die ersehnte Insel und folgten einem Einheimischen, der Unterkünfte vermietete. Als erstes stach uns zudem ein Ticket Office ins Auge und wir waren froh, uns von den Kerlen auf unserem Anreisemarathon nicht unter Druck gesetzt haben zu lassen. Preis und Leistung von Odis Unterkunft schienen zu stimmen und wir ließen uns bei ihm nieder. Nach einer erfrischenden Dusche konnten wir all die Strapazen der vergangenen 11 Stunden abspülen und gingen mit unseren deutschen Nachbarn Julia, Isabel und Katharina essen. Musik, Essen und Service stimmten, hätte nicht Isabel auf einmal ein komisches Gesicht gezogen und schlagartig zu sprechen aufgehört. Was war passiert? Nun ja, in ihrem Burito hatte es sich eine riesige gegrillte Kakerlake wie eine Made im Speck gemütlich gemacht und uns allen verschlug es die Sprache und den Appetit. Der Kellner entschuldigte sich und berechnete ihr dieses Essen ala Rüdiger Nehberg nicht. In einer benachbarten Strandbar ließen wir diesen aufregenden Tag bei einem Cocktail gemütlich ausklingen...

 

 

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