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Vientiane

Datum: 
2. Dezember 2009

Was machen wir eigentlich in Laos? Ach ja, da wollten wir ja hin. Irgendwie war bei uns die Luft raus und zum wiederholten mal schlich sich der Reisemüdigkeitsvirus ein. Wir hatten nach der schönen Zeit auf Koh Phangan keine Lust mehr zu reisen. Am liebsten wären wir einfach dort geblieben aber da unser Visum auslief, mussten wir los. Südostasien ist wunderschön aber auch anstrengend und der komplett andere Kulturkreis machte uns mal wieder zu schaffen. Es liegt nicht an Laos, sondern wahrscheinlich eher an unserer Erlebnisfülle der letzten 11 Monate und dazu war auch noch Vorweihnachtszeit. 

Um nicht komplett im Selbstmitleid zu versinken, machten wir einen Stadtspaziergang, um uns abzulenken. Vientiane wirkte nicht wie eine südostasiatische Hauptstadt auf uns. Eher sehr beschaulich und mit dem Charme eines Provinznestes. Französische Kolonialbauten prägten das Stadtbild ebenso wie unzählige Tempelanlagen und an jeder Ecke findet man Baguettestände. Touristen begegneten wir nur vereinzelt. Abends werden die Bürgersteige hoch geklappt  und man sieht wirklich niemanden mehr auf der Straße, außer vielleicht ein paar verdutzte Westler, die nach Hause wanken. Einer Geisterstadt gleich liegt Vientiane dann da und erwacht erst wieder am nächsten Morgen. Die Laoten schließen ihre Läden meist um 22:30 Uhr und wie es uns überall in Asien begegnet ist, wohnen sie auch gleichzeitg darin. Es werden die Mopeds reingeschoben, die Betten im Laden aufgestellt und der Fernseher dudelt sowieso den ganzen Tag. 


Wir liefen am Mekong entlang, der gleichzeitig die natürliche Grenze zu Thailand bildet, und waren ein wenig enttäuscht, da es eher einer Mondlandschaft glich. Entlang der Uferstraße erstreckte sich eine riesige Baustelle und so bogen wir lieber zu einer der unzähligen Pagoden der Stadt ab.

Wie auf einer Perlenkette sind sie in mehreren Reihen parallel des Mekongs aufgereiht. Wir beobachteten die Mönche bei ihrem Tageswerk und uns wurde auch nicht weiter Beachtung geschenkt, da die Pagoden jedem offen stehen. Wie überall in Asien sollte man das kleine Einmaleins des respektvollen Miteinanders westlicher  und asiatischer Kultur unbedingt beachten: u. a. die Schuhe vor Betreten eines Gebäudes ausziehen, Frauen dürfen keinen Mönch am Gewand berühren und der Kopf eines Buddhisten darf auf keinen Fall angefasst werden, da hier der Sitz der Seele ist. Wir ließen uns einfach durch die Beschaulichkeit der Gassen treiben und genossen die Ruhe dieser kleinen Hauptstadt.


Ein altes Sprichwort beschreibt die laotische Gelassenheit wohl am besten:

„Die Vietnamesen pflanzen den Reis, die Khmer schauen zu, und die Lao lauschen, wie es wächst.“

reiseberichtvorschaubild: 
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