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Tempel, Reisterrasssen und der teuerste Kaffee der Welt

Datum: 
29. September 2009

Für Montag und Dienstag hatten wir uns einen Fahrer organisiert, den wir auf dem Rückweg unseres Spaziergang nach Penestanan kennenlernten. Da in Bali quasi ein Überangebot an Taxifahrern besteht, konnten wir „Q-ULL“ (bedeutet relaxt, sein Spitzname) sehr spontan buchen. Ein Anruf genügte und 20 Minuten später hatten wir eine Verabredung, die uns das zentrale Bali näher bringen sollte. Tempel und Reisterrassen, das war es, was wir sehen wollten. An der Elephantenhöhle (Goa Gajah) angekommen, hieß es zunächst, einen passenden Sarong für uns beide zu erstehen. Viele Marktfrauen wollten ihr Geschäft mit uns machen, doch ein Sarong pro Nase reicht dann doch. Beim Betreten des Tempels bot sich ein älterer Hindu sogleich an, unser Guide zu sein. Das lehnten wir jedoch ab, da er es natürlich nicht aus freien Stücken getan hätte.

 

 

Viele Balinesinnen und Balinesen saßen in Gruppen versammelt herum und fertigten Schmuck für die bevorstehende Zeremonie und Räucherstäbchen an. Da wir jedoch nicht die einzigen Touristen an diesem heißen Tag waren, haben wir uns recht schnell aus dem Staub gemacht.

 

Unsere Tour führte uns weiter nach Tampaksiring, wo sich in einer fantastischen Schlucht des Pakrisan Flusses mit den kunstvollen Reisterrassen das Heiligtum Gunung Kawi befindet. In gegenüberliegenden Felswänden sind neun Monumente in ostjavanischer Form herausgmeißelt und stammen vermutlich aus dem 11. Jh. Nico und ich waren fast alleine unterwegs und am Fusse des Flusses wehte eine erfrischende Brise. Es war ein idyllischer Flecken Erde, nur der Wiederaufstieg war mehr als beschwerlich bei der Hitze.

 

 

 

Auf dem Weg zum Vulkan Batur passierten wir noch eine Kaffeeplantage, wo wir viele einheimische Pflanzenarten wie Zimt, Vanille, Kakao oder Kardamom sehen, anfassen und teilweise auch probieren konnten und waren v.a. fasziniert, dass die Zimtstangen aus der Baumrinde gewonnen werden. Dann jedoch richtete sich unsere Aufmerksamkeit auf den wilden Fleckenmusang (Katzenart), die den teuersten Kaffee der Welt „produziert“. Wir beide mussten schmunzeln, da uns sofort Nicos verlorene Wette gegen meinen Onkel in Erinnerung kam. Vor einigen Jahren erzählte Naturfreund Rainer ihm die merkwürdige Geschichte über die Gewinnung des teuersten Kaffees der Welt, doch Nico konnte seinen Erzählungen keinen Glauben schenken. Nach Recherchen musste er sich jedoch geschlagen geben und seine Wettschuld (1 Kasten Bier) einlösen...Vor Ort und Jahre später wurden wir nun eines Besseren belehrt und konnten sogar eine kleine Tasse für 10 US Dolllar probieren. Das Geheimnis des Kaffees liegt in den Wildkatzen, die des nächtens nur die besten Kaffeekirschen fressen und sie dann in ihrem Verdauungsprozess „veredeln“. Die Bohnen kommen dann hinten wieder raus und müssen in mühevoller Kleinarbeit vom  Waldboden gesammelt werden. Am Ende ist es aber dann doch nur ein starker, erdiger und geschmeidiger Kaffee...

 

 

 

Immer wieder passierten wir auf unseren Fahrten die wundervollen Reisfelder und kamen aus dem Staunen gar nicht mehr heraus. Der Blick auf die drei Vulkane, von denen der Kleinste zuletzt 1994 ausbrach war genial. Überall konnten wir die schwarze Lava sehen und waren uns einmal mehr bewusst, wieder an einem unsicheren Ort zu sein. Nach sechsstündiger Erlebnistour waren wir ganz schön k.o. und fielen nach dem Abendessen erschöpft in die Federn.

 

 

Am Dienstag wurde das Mammutprogramm vom Vortag im Grunde fortgesetzt. Wir besichtigten Pura Besakih – den „Muttertempel“ der Balinesen am Fusse des größten Vulkans (Gunung Agung), zudem das Felsenrelief Yeh Pulu, das die balinesische Lebensweise zeigt und aus dem 14. Jh. stammt und den für Webkunst bekannten Ort Sidemen. In Letzterem haben wir uns ein traditionellen handgewebten Stoff in den Farben rot und gold gegönnt, das uns nach unserer Rückkehr den Zauber von Bali als Wandbehang in Erinnerung rufen soll. Leider wurde uns auch vor Augen geführt, dass viele Produkte in Kinderarbeit gefertigt werden. Nach der Schule ist es üblich, dass die Jungen und Mädchen ihren Eltern bei der Produktion helfen...

 

 

reiseberichtvorschaubild: 
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