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„Nicht weil es schwer ist, wagen wir es nicht,
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Goldene Hälse und lange Ohren

Datum: 
18. Dezember 2009

Heute sollte ein lang ersehnter Wunsch in Erfüllung gehen, denn es ging zu den thailändischen Bergstämmen in der Nähe des goldenen Dreiecks. Unter ihnen befinden sich neben den Akha und Lisu (die Landwirtschaft betreiben) auch die aus Burma stammenden Karen Padaung, die wegen ihrer goldenen Ringe um den Hals große Bekanntheit als Giraffenfrauen erlangten.

Natürlich war dieser Ausflug ein Kombipaket und so ließen wir und ein weiteres junges Pärchen die Orchideenfarm, den Schmetterlingspark und die Chiang Dao Höhle über uns ergehen. Zum Schluss wurde es dann wirklich interessant. Wir besuchten das Dorf der Karen und schon an der Weggabelung hieß uns eine ältere Dame eines benachbarten Stammes mit ihrem herzlichen Lächeln willkommen. Später sollten wir sehen, dass sie ein begehrtes Postkartenmotiv ist und ihr Markenzeichen dabei die vom jahrelangen Betelnuss kauen mittlerweile tiefschwarzen Zähne sind.

 

Weiter ging es ins Dorf und schon empfing uns die erste Padaung (pa bedeutet drum herum und daung glänzendes Metall) des Karen Stammes am Webstuhl. Sie stammen ursprünglich aus Burma, das sie jedoch wegen der Militärdiktatur verlassen mussten. Wir waren ganz fasziniert von ihrem exotischen Anblick, den wir bis dato nur aus dem Fernsehen kannten. Unsere Reiseleiterin Pat erklärte uns, dass sie 23 jahre jung ist, Mutter von zwei Kindern und hohes Ansehen in ihrem Stamm genießt. Beginnend ab dem fünften Lebensjahr werden bis zum 45. Lebensjahr alle vier Jahre einer der schweren Messingringe angelegt. Im Laufe eines Lebens können da locker fünf bis neun Kilogramm zusammenkommen. Je mehr Ringe eine Frau trägt, desto höher ist ihr Ansehen innerhalb des Stammes. Durch die Last der Ringe werden Nackenmuskulatur, Schultern und Schlüsselbeine nach unten gedrückt, sodass der Eindrück eines längeren Halses entstehen könnte, was aber nicht zutrifft.

Heutzutage steht es den Mädchen allerdings frei, ob sie dieser Tradition folgen. Entscheiden sie sich dafür, können sie jedoch die Schule nicht besuchen. Bei Schwangerschaft werden die Ringe unter ärztlicher Aufsicht im Krankenhaus abgenommen, da die Wirbelsäule die ersten Tage gestützt werden muss. Ich habe selbst einmal ein halbes Musterexemplar angelegt und muss sagen, das war eine verdammt schwere Last.

 

Woher der Brauch stammt, ist nicht eindeutig geklärt. Früher wurde vermutet, dass die Ringe ein Schutz gegen Tigerangriffe seien um die Frauen, die den Fortbestand des Stammes sicherten, zu schützen. Einer anderen Theorie zufolge dienten sie zur Abschreckung von Sklavenhändlern. Ursprünglich sollen die Frauen Ringe aus purem Gold verwendet haben, doch wegen des Mangels ging man zum ähnlich aussehenden Messing über. Es wird zudem überliefert, dass der Maharadscha von Burma das Recht hatte, die schönsten Mädchen des Landes als Konkubinen auszuwählen und die Padaung Frauen versuchten, ihre Töchter für den Maharadscha unattraktiv zu machen. Heute sind jedoch viele Ethnologen davon überzeugt, dass der Körperschmuck mythologische Hintergründe hat. Die Padaung selbst glauben, dass sie vom Drachen abstammen. Durch die Ringe imitieren sie somit die „Hälse“ ihrer Vorfahren. Es wird davon ausgegangen, dass die Padaung aus Nordchina einwanderten und chinesische Glaubensvorstellungen mitbrachten.


Es gibt neben den Langhalsfrauen auch noch die Langohren, die aber irgendwie im Schatten ihrer Stammesschwestern stehen. Der tiefere Sinn ihres Körperschmuckes blieb trotz reichlicher Recherchen im Verborgenen. Also lassen wir lieber Bilder sprechen:

 

Nach und nach klapperten wir die verschiedenen Stände ab und ich ließ es mir nicht nehmen, ein handgewebtes Tuch und drei Messingarmreifen zu kaufen. Dabei war ein Mädchen schöner zurecht gemacht als das andere. Unsere Kamera hielt kaum einen Moment still und irgendwie kamen wir uns manchmal auch komisch vor. Doch gewohnt sind sie es und machen mit ihrem exotischen Aussehen auch ihr kleines Geschäft.

 

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