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1. November 2009

Nach einer ausgiebigen Nachtruhe, die bis zum nächsten Mittag andauern sollte, wurde ich nach einem Frühstüch neugierig auf Phnom Penh. Nico hingegen wollte einen ruhigen Tag einlegen. Nachdem wir am Vorabend schon Dollarnoten aus dem Automaten gezogen hatten, wollte ich zumindest ein paar Riel (eigentliche Landeswährung) eintauschen, um nicht ständig draufzuzahlen. Es ist schon komisch, dass man in Kambodscha fast alles in Dollar zahlt und wie schon erwähnt, die amerikanische Währung sogar aus den ATMs gespuckt wird. Man könnte Kambodscha auch als 1-Dollar-Land bezeichnen, da scheinbar alles ebensoviel kostet und mehr. In unserem Guesthouse tauschte ich dann 30 Dollar zu einem Kurs von 1:4.000 und hatte aufeinmal ein riesiges Bündel Geld in der Hand, da die gute Dame leider nur 1.000 und 500 Riel Noten parat hatte. Nur mit Mühe konnte ich das dicke Bündel in meiner Bauchtasche unterbringen.

 

 

Die Straßen waren an diesem Sonntag besonders voll gestopft, da das Wasserfestival für 3 Tage stattfand. Auf dem Tonlé Sap Fluss traten viele Rudermannschaften zum Wettkampf gegeneinander an und die Einheimischen feuerten ihre Teams an. Es kam einem Volksfest gleich und für mich war es fast schon beklemmend, so viele Eindrücke in nur einer Stunde zu sammeln. In den Tempeln hielten sich buddhistische Mönche (Hauptreligion) auf und automatisch wurden Erinnerungen an Thailand wach.

 

 

Oft verzog ich mich mit der Kamera bestückt in eine ruhige Ecke, um das Treiben auf mich wirken zu lassen. Das drückende Klima tat sein Übriges. Überall säuselten verschiedene Gerüche um meine Nase herum, die exotischen Gesichter fesselten mich. Die Bedürftigkeit war allgegenwärtig und die Schere zwischen arm und reich klafft hier extrem auseinander. Verkrüppelten Menschen, die entweder durch Landminen oder aber durch die Folgen des Krieges in den 70-er Jahren für immer gezeichnet sind, bleibt nur die Möglichkeit zu betteln, da sie keine staatliche Unterstützung bekommen. Familien leben auf der Straße unter Plastikplanen oder in notdürftig zusammen geschusterten Wellblechhütten. Es bettelten mich kleine Kinder an und zerrten sogar an meinem Arm, dass es mir fast das Herz zeriss.

 

 

Kambodscha ist durch jahrzehntelang andauernde Kriege ein armes, von der Weltöffentlichkeit vergessenes Land und die Mehrzahl der Bevölkerung ist ausschließlich mit dem täglichen Broterwerb beschäftigt. Es wird von der Hand in den Mund gelebt, denn eine stattliche Unterstützung fehlt gänzlich. Einen Ausweg aus dieser Lage bereitet der aufkeimende Tourismus, denn immerhin besuchen mittlerweile über eine Million Touristen jährlich Kambodscha. Phnom Penh spielt dabei eher eine untergeordnete Rolle und dient für die meisten nur als Drehkreuz auf dem Weg nach Siem Reap/Angkor Wat.

 

Am Abend wurden wir in einer Pizzeria Zeugen eines gigantischen Feuerwerks und die Kellner ermutigten uns, an den Fluss zu gehen, solange das Essen zubereitet wird. Wunderschön, beleuchtete Schiffe säumten das funkelnde Wasser und die Raketen wetteiferten mit den „fahrenden Lampenläden“. Das nennen wir mal einen imposanten Auftakt für unseren Kambodscha-Aufenthalt. Aufgrund unserer Sitzordnung konnte ich während des Essens das Spektakel direkt anschauen und Nico verfolgte die Liveübertragung parallel im Fernsehen. Sogar der König höchstpersönlich wohnte diesem Festival bei. Und dennoch kommt einem das Spektakel bei all der Armut und den vorherrschenden Problemen im Land befremdlich vor.

 

 

 

Zurück im Hostel gab es dann weniger leichte Kost. Es lief der Film „The Killing Field“, der eindrucksvoll die wahre Geschichte zweier Journalisten in den 70-er Jahren erzählt, die unter der „Khmer Rouge Herrschaft“ in verschiedener Weise zu leiden hatten. Daraufhin beschlossen wir, das wahre „killing field“ bei Phnom Penh zu besuchen, was sicherlich ein etwas anderer Exkurs in die tragische Geschichte wird.

 

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