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Über den Mekong nach Kambodscha

Datum: 
31. Oktober 2009

Am nächsten Morgen wurden wir 07:25 Uhr von einem Rikschafahrer abgeholt, der uns samt Gepäck zum Bootsanleger bringen sollte. Der arme, dünne Vietnamese musste ordentlich in die Pedalen treten, um unser Gewicht zuzüglich das der Rucksäcke zu händeln. Es waren sicherlich um die 160 kg. Er ließ uns an der langen Flusspromenade raus und zeigte auf eine Stelle mit einer schmalen Treppe. Dort nahm uns ein etwa 15-jähriger Junge in Empfang und tuckerte mit uns in seiner Nussschale auf den Mekong raus.

 

 

Wir erwarteten eigentlich eine Pier mit einem großen Schiff, denn wir hatten ja schließlich eine Fähre gebucht. Allerdings ist das Wort Fähre eine dehnbarer Begriff, wie wir spätestens seit Tonga wissen. Uns gingen einige Gedanken durch den Kopf: „Hätten wir vielleicht doch etwas mehr zahlen sollen? War das hier die sogenannte B-Mannschaft?“. Auf unser Nachfragen sagte er wahrscheinlich seine einzigen englischen Worte: „Cham Village...“, was auch immer das heißen soll und zeigte geradeaus. Wir fuhren an kleinen, schwimmenden Dörfern vorbei und nach einer Weile zeigte er auf ein schmales, längliches Boot. Das war also unsere Fähre nach Kambodscha aber vorher wurden wir noch zu einer Verkaufsveranstaltung in einem der Pfahlhäuser geschippert. Über einen schmalen Steg, der im Prinzip nur aus einer langen Holzplanke bestand und natürlich ohne Geländer auskam, balancierten wir in einem akrobatischen Akt über das braune Flusswasser Richtung Stelzenhaus. Unsere spätere Schicksalsgemeinschaft wurde schon vor uns dorthin gebracht und in Verkaufsgespräche verwickelt. Sie versuchen es aber auch immer wieder, doch wir wollten weder gewebte Stoffe, Mützen noch Kekse kaufen. Da wir beide etwas grimmig drein schauten und wir uns wieder wie die Touris vorkamen, die man nur melken muss, wurden wir in Ruhe gelassen. Allerdings bekamen wir einen ungeschminkten Einblick in das Leben einer Großfamilie auf dem Mekong. Nach einer Weile wurden wir in das größere Boot verfrachtet und die nächsten 3 Stunden tuckerten wir Richtung kambodschanische Grenze über den Mekong.

 

 

Zum ersten Mal bereisten wir ein neues Land also nicht mit dem Flugzeug, sodass ein besonderes Reisegefühl aufkam, sich ganz behutsam von A nach B bringen zu lassen. In unserer insgesamt 8 ½ stündigen Bootsfahrt entlang des Mekongs und seiner Seitenarme erhielten wir einen Einblick in das harte und recht einfache Leben am und mit dem Fluss. Der Fluss schien den Rhythmus vorzugeben und ist die Lebensader der Mekongbewohner zugleich. Sie wuschen ihre Wäsche, ihr Geschirr, sich selbst und ihre Wasserbüffel in dem braunen Wasser, fischten, reparierten ihre Netze oder hielten Mittagsruhe in einer Hängematte. Die Kinder spielten im Fluss und winkten uns oft zu, so dass es Spaß machte, mit dem Fahrtwind im Haar in diese einzigartige Landschaft einzutauchen.

 

 

 

Auf dem Weg zur Grenze füllten wir die notwendigen Einreisepapiere aus, gaben ein Passfoto ab, zahlten die Visagebühren (23 US$) und mussten unsere Reisepässe abgeben. Bei solchen Maßnahmen überkommt uns immer ein ungutes Gefühl, denn der Pass ist das wichtigste Dokument auf unserer Reise. Es führte aber kein Weg daran vorbei, da unsere Reiseleiterin auf der Hälfte der Tour ausstieg und mit den Unterlagen auf dem Landweg zur Grenze fuhr. Später erfuhren wir, dass das Visum nur 20US$ kostet und sie sich 3US$ pro Person als Kommission einstrich. Was solls, der Grenztourismus scheint angesichts der durchschnittlichen Monatsgehälter ein lohnendes Geschäft zu sein.

 

An der Grenze legten wir eine Mittagspause ein, die ebenso dazu genutzt wurde, uns unsere Pässe mit dem eingeklebten Visum zurückzugeben. Wir wechstelten nochmal das Boot, machten einen kurzen Zwischstop am kambodschanischen Grenzposten um die noch fehlenden Stempel zu erhalten und ein kambodschanisches Ehepaar brachte uns und sieben weitere Touristen mit Motorenlärm und Vibrationen wie auf einem Traktor nach Kambodscha. Es war erstaunlich, wie schnell sich die Landschaft veränderte. Statt Wasserbüffel sahen wir nun mehr weiße Kühe und wunderschöne Pagoden entlang des Flusses. Nach weiteren 3 Stunden war unsere Flußfahrt beendet und wir wurden zusammengefercht in einem Minibus nach Phnom Penh gebracht. Nico und ich saßen vorne und sahen, dass der Tacho nicht funktionierte und spürten, dass auch die Heizung defekt war. Es kam nur heiße Luft heraus und wir wunderten uns nicht, dass wir mit offenen Scheiben, einem Cabrio gleich, durch die Abenddämmerung fuhren.

 

Da der Fahrer wiedermal kein Englisch sprach, blieben wir ahnungslos, wohin er uns brachte. Er fuhr direkt in ein Guesthouse hinein und wir waren alle ratlos. Wo sind wir eigentlich? Wiedermal eine unbekannte Stadt, ein fremdes Land und wir natürlich wie immer ohne Plan. Es stürmten gleich zwei Angestellte auf uns zu und boten einige Zimmer an. Da es aber zu wenig Betten waren und die anderen ohnehin nicht hier bleiben wollten, befragten wir gemeinsam unser großes Orakel – den Lonely Planet. Nach einigen ratlosen Minuten hängten wir uns einfach an unsere Schicksalsgemeinschaft und ein netter Franzose unserer Truppe organisierte zwei Tuk Tuks. Getreu dem Motto: „Gemeinsam sind wir stark.“ fuhren wir schließlich vereint zum Royal Guesthouse und ließen den Abend recht gemütlich in einer Pizzeria am Fluss ausklingen.

 

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